How to get a good harvest of strawberries

Experienced gardeners who strive to get a good harvest of strawberries throughout the summer, are well aware that the best result in achieving this goal is provided by an elaborate selection of varieties. According to their characteristics, plants should correspond as much as possible to the climatic conditions of the growing region and should be selected in such a way that a smooth alternation of periods of fruiting takes place. To do this, it is recommended to take separate beds for early, medium and late varieties.

Strawberry bushes of the first year of life

When planting young plants should not expect to receive a harvest in the current season. Despite the fact that strong bushes are capable of flowering and fruiting in the first year of life, it is necessary to wait and give the plant a good development of the root system - it will provide strawberries with high-quality preparation for winter and protection against freezing. For this reason, for all the first-years, it is necessary to remove flower stalks and direct the forces of the plant to its growth and development.

If a young strawberry takes root badly and is sick for a long time, then this may be a sign of poor-quality soil preparation. It is necessary to take care of the preparation of the beds in the fall: the ground is well dug up, weeds are carefully chosen, fresh manure is brought in and is covered with a spruce spruce branches about 10 cm thick. For best results, a small amount of wood ash is recommended in each planting well.

Strawberry care

Despite the fact that garden strawberries are able to resist to weeds well, we should not neglect weeding - removing weeds from the bed helps to obtain particularly large and juicy berries. At the same time with weeding, pruning of old leaves that have changed their habitual color will not be superfluous, which contributes to the rejuvenation of the bush.

Particular attention should be paid to watering strawberries, because beds with plants rather quickly dry in the open sun, which adversely affects the quality of the crop. Watering is usually done every three days, and during drought - daily.The use of mulch contributes to the retention of moisture in the soil and the simultaneous protection of strawberry from various pests and diseases. Straw, sawdust, needles or mowed grass can be used as a mulching material.

A good remedy to repel insect pests can serve as planting in the intervals between the beds of strawberries such flowers as marigolds or calendula - they not only protect the crop, but also serve as a garden decoration. In small areas, where every meter counts, gardeners prefer to plant garlic in the aisle, the smell of which deters many garden pests.

Feeding strawberries

The use of high-quality fertilizers according to an elaborate feeding scheme is a prerequisite for obtaining a good crop of strawberries. The first feeding is recommended before flowering: in this case, the infusion of chicken manure has proven itself well.

For the preparation of fertilizers dissolve 500-600 g of litter in 10 liters of water and insist for a week - if this is not done, then the roots of plants can be burned with a fresh solution. Before watering the infusion is recommended not to use in a concentrated form,and half diluted with water.

During the period of the formation and growth of berries, a second feeding with nutrients is necessary. Pre-harvested bread crusts are well suited for this purpose. About 2 kg of rye crackers pour a small amount of water and insist under the yoke during the week. After the first signs of fermentation, the infusion is diluted with water and used for watering strawberries.

For the same purpose, you can use fresh nettle: an armful of this plant is cut with garden scissors or chopped with a spade, poured with water and insisted for several days. Such top dressing is considered universal, and can be used as a fertilizer not only for strawberries, but also for other garden plants.

Reproduction and transplanting strawberries

The traditional breeding scheme of strawberries is reduced to waiting for the period when the plant ends fruiting. Gardeners practicing this method, before the onset of autumn, cut well-established rosettes from the most powerful bushes and transferred them to other beds. The disadvantage of this method is that strawberry bushes are quickly depleted, the berries become small and dry,and the seedlings get weakened due to the fact that the main part of the nutrients was spent by the plant on the formation and ripening of fruits.

For proper breeding of strawberries, it is necessary first of all to select strong mother bushes. For this purpose, the ideal young plants, which gave the richest harvest of berries and best of all endured all the weather adversity. These bushes are deposited on a separate bed and in the next season are subjected to the removal of buds to prevent flowering and fruiting.

This measure will help to ensure that the strawberries will start to produce a lot of whiskers, of which only the strongest and healthiest should be left. It is very convenient for further disembarking to use plastic cups from under yoghurt: under each outlet with rudiment roots, located near the uterine bush, they substitute a container with ground and leave for rooting until August. Two weeks before transplanting to a permanent place, the whiskers that connect the socket to the mother bush, are cut and allow the plant to get used to food due to its own root system.